Sahagún–a welcome respite from the plateau. Intense and emphatic, this town possesses none of the magnificent charm of Burgos but nearly twice the vigour. The vaporish mumming of eternal flatness is quickly lost the moment one becomes immersed in the city’s layers. N. and I enjoyed the clement afternoon by touring sacred places and dining in the plaza. Afterwards, we took our espresso with cakes in a sequestered panadería.